The first charm is too tall to use when the tin is closed if there is any elevation to the bottom. I am thinking I will use the large area for the water area and the lid as a backdrop.
I asked them if they have anything smaller. They do and it is a cool charm in that the paddler's arm moves.
Since the arm moves, I want to be sure it functions that way and my idea is to make it move from the outside so the viewer doesn't have to reach into the scene. I talk about this with my husband and we agree that I should be able to attach a wire to the end of the paddle that will make it move.
The first time we attach a wire using solder we realize that there needs to be a second pivot to this set up. I try bending the soldered wire and it comes off. Although the solder seems to hold, it doesn't hold well enough for too much manipulation.
After repeated application of bent wires, I finally am able to solder a ring to the back of the paddle that clears the canoe properly. Next I add a second wire that is looped through the ring. Previously I had drilled a hole in the side of the tin for the second wire to go out. Once I am satisfied with the alignment of the wires I super-glue the canoe into place.
In this second photo, I have added more paper machie to protect the mechanism from the resin that I will pour to make the water of the scene.
To maintain an open area for the second wire, I used a cut apart straw to cover the wire.
I will trim the outside wire to make a pull of some sort.
I do have to buy some more resin as mine was froze up and discolored. I need to paint the additional paper machie and the canoe.